There is a particular expression that settles on the face of someone who has lived in Eko long enough. It is not quite hardness, and it is not quite sadness. It is something more precise than either a kind of permanent readiness, a facial posture that says, without words, that whatever comes next has probably already been anticipated, that surprise is a luxury this city stopped offering years ago. You see it on the danfo, on the bridge, in the queue at the bank, in the eyes of the woman selling omi on the roadside at six in the morning because she has already been awake for three hours and the day has barely introduced itself. It is the expression of a human being who has learned, at considerable psychological cost, to absorb the unabsorbable.
Eko does not ease you in.
There is no orientation period, no gentle introduction to its rhythms, no mercy extended to the newcomer who arrives from Port Harcourt or Akwa Ibom or some quieter corner of the country with the reasonable expectation that a city, however large, is still a place organized around human comfort. Eko disabuses you of this expectation quickly and without apology. It presents itself in full immediately the noise, the density, the heat that is not merely atmospheric but social, the press of eleven million bodies all moving with urgent and competing purposes through an infrastructure designed, at its most generous estimate, for a fraction of that number. The city does not wait for you to find your footing. It moves, and you move with it, or you are moved by it, but stillness is not among the options offered.
